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This
is an article Gina
Wallace was asked to write for
PROFESSIONAL NAILS MAGAZINE.
Becoming an Expert Airbrush Artist
By: Gina Wallace
Principal International Educator, Essential Nails
Selecting the Right Airbrush
Choosing an airbrush is a lot like selecting a car. There are various models
in many price ranges and not all are suited to your particular needs or financial
situation. The same holds true for an airbrush. Some are designed for specific
applications and others are aimed at a variety of uses. Some will only handle
a particular kind of paint and others are just for precise detailing. Of
course, a variety of prices correspond with the assortment of models. The
following is information to help guide you to the airbrush that is right
for your personal application.
Single Action vs. Double Action
Single Action airbrushes deliver paint and air simultaneously when you press
the trigger. Paint amounts are controlled with an adjustment screw either
at the front or rear of the brush. The general rule is you have to stop spraying
to make adjustments to your paint flow with a net result of minimal control.
Double Action airbrushes offer greater control because air and paint are
controlled by a single trigger. Simply push the trigger down for air and
pull it back to introduce paint into the air stream. Most experts agree that
the double action airbrush should be the choice for beginners.
Gravity Feed, Side & Bottom Feed Airbrushes
On gravity feed airbrushes, the paint is loaded in a reservoir or cup on
the top of the airbrush. The paint travels by gravity and capillary action
to the atomizer tip of the brush. This allows the painter to, not only paint
very fine lines but also run at much lower pressures. Although oil based
paints can be used in this brush, it is particularly suited for acrylic-(water)based
paints. A major consideration for selecting a gravity feed brush is the ability
to fuel the brush with several drops of paint even though the brush may be
equipped with a larger reservoir. This also makes cleaning and color changes
easier. The above particulars make these styles of brush ideal for the fingernail
design community.
Dual-Action (also known as Double Action) Gravity Feed Models:
Bottom and side fed models utilize a siphon feed system to remove the paint
from the jar mounted on the bottom or cup on the side of the brush. Siphon
models must be run at higher pressures to establish paint flow to the tip.
Air and paint are mixed internally and travel some distance to the atomizer
tip. This style of brush is suited more for oil-based paints than acrylic-based
paints. Color changing and cleaning of this brush is more labor intensive
because paint is in contact with more areas of the brush. However, this style
is perfect for painting large projects and is the brush of choice for T-Shirt
painters, auto graphics and the like.
The number one rule for purchasing an airbrush is service
after the sale. It is essential to have someone that
can instruct you on the use and maintenance of the brush
you have selected.
Air Sources
The airbrush is an air tool, and requires compressed air to operate. In most
cases, the best source of compressed air is an electric air compressor. There
are many choices to the beginning artist to choose from when buying a compressor.
Almost too many; the selection can be a bit overwhelming. But do not despair!
With a few helpful pointers, I hope to make the selection process much easier.
Electric Air Compressors
The first thing to consider is how much air your airbrush needs. Most models
will get by with .5 CFM at 20 PSI. What does that mean in English? Well,
CFM stands for cubic feet per minute, and refers to the volume of air that
a compressor generates. PSI stands for pounds per square inch, which refers
to the actual pressure that the air is built up to. .5 CFM at 20 PSI is actually
a very small amount of air, and all but the cheapest of compressors will
be able to pump out this much air. Does that mean that you can just buy the
second cheapest compressor on the market? Yes and no. .5 CFM at 20 PSI is
the absolute MINIMUM that your airbrush will work at. It will give you no
room to play with at all. It's best to get a compressor that will give you
a bit more than the minimum to accommodate some experimentation on your part
with PSI settings. Also, you will want a compressor that can keep up with
your airbrush sessions. The cheaper compressors tend to overheat quickly,
leaving you without an air source.
As a general rule, all compressors will operate your airbrush providing you
can control the amount of air with a regulator. This means that the air source
can be as simple as a small hobby compressor to the large shop style compressor
designed for running air tools. Even a portable air tank will work providing
it has a regulator. Compressors can be found in a variety of price ranges
and you can expect to spend $80 to $500 (or pound equivalent) for one that
will operate your brush.
No matter what type of compressor you get, there are two things you will
need to add on, if it does not already have them. The first is an air regulator
with a gauge. This will allow you to set the exact amount of air that you
are spraying at. The second is a moisture trap. This will prevent moisture
from building up inside the airline and blowing out your airbrush, causing
unexpected bursts of water from spitting out the tip while you're working.
Some types of moisture traps fit right onto the airbrush hose, other types
are screwed onto the compressor's air port. You can also buy a regulator
moisture trap combo that does both jobs. Those are a bit expensive, but very
nice. Whether you buy a regulator and moisture trap separately, or an all
in one unit, you should make sure that the fittings match the compressor
and your airbrush hose. Most compressors and airbrush hoses have 1/4" fittings,
but regulators and moisture traps come in 3/8" fittings and 1/4" fittings.
Make sure you get the right ones. Also, make sure you have all male to female
connections. You don't want to try to attach your airbrush hose to the regulator
and find out that they are both female fittings.
Some common electric airbrush compressor models are pictured below:
CO2 Tanks
Besides the electronic compressors, CO2 is another air source that a few
artists have found ideal to operate their airbrushes. One can expect to spend
$100 to $200 to get set up for CO2 operation. CO2 tanks can be purchased
from welding supply shops, and restaurant supply companies (CO2 is used to
carbonate drinks in soda fountains and beer on tap.) But the only real advantages
to CO2 over compressors is that there is no noise at all, and no need for
electricity. The disadvantage is that you have to keep taking it back to
the supply shop for refills. A ten pound tank will last about ten hours of
continuous airbrushing. In the long run, CO2 is much more expensive than
a compressor. Also, if you use CO2 in a cold environment (below 70 F), or
use too much of a volume of air at once (like if you had two airbrushes
hooked up to the same tank) the regulator can freeze, causing the air pressure
to go way up unexpectedly. But if you are going to be airbrushing outside,
in a warm environment, it is nice to not have to worry about an extension
cord. Because CO2 displaces oxygen, it is not a good idea to airbrush indoors
with CO2 without fresh air ventilation. A respirator or spray booth without
outside exhaust wont cut it. Without fresh air ventilation, the CO2 content
will rise--at first making breathing difficult and making you very tired.
Eventually you could pass out!
Air Propellant Cans
Lastly, for economy and portability (but very occasional use) are these 750ml
cans of air propellant. They are not recommended for serious-minded airbrushers,
but are ideal for short-term use or for someone who wishes to "test" their
airbrushing abilities. The air canisters contain about an hours worth of
air and are used up quickly in the cleaning process.
How-To Airbrush Training Video
DVDs
Video DVDs are an excellent source for instruction, especially for those
who need repeated review the techniques (which are not easy to grasp in a
1-2 day classroom environment of several students).
Below are our SIX Home Learn Nail Extension Training and Airbrush
Training Video DVDs.
ALL
are all in excess of 2 HOURS in length, are VERY detailed, and include graphics
to maximize learning speed.
Color Intensity
Provided the airbrush is regulated to the correct psi (usually 25-35 for
airbrushing fingernails), the intensity of color of the spray pattern depends
on how many times you pass the paint over the area to be sprayed and at what
distance you spray it from. The closer you get to the subject, the darker
the paint will appear on it. The further away you get, the spray pattern
will widen and the color will appear less intense. Therefore, if you spray ½ inch
from the subject, you will receive a skinny, thin, dark line. If you spray
3 inches away, you will receive a much wider, fat, lighter line. When spraying
the entire nail, it is best to "circle spray" the color onto the nail in
order to prevent puddling of the paint in any given area.
Hygienic Issues
Since neither the airbrush itself, nor the paint inside come in direct contact
with any other person, it is safe to use on the general public without having
to "sanitize" the mechanical working parts of the airbrush. Comparatively
speaking, (although it is EXTREMELY unlikely), you risk more of a chance
of infection from use of a community polish bottle than from having your
nails airbrushed. Airbrush paints are non-toxic and water soluble.
Requirements for Becoming an Airbrush Artist
The only pre-qualifications to becoming an excellent airbrush artist are
to have:
1) Determination and enthusiasm to learn the techniques.
2) A high standard towards quality of artwork produced.
3) Quality airbrushing tools and products.
4) The realistic expectation that one must practice a LOT in order to "master" exceptional
results with an airbrush. Airbrushing nails is a learned skill (anyone
can learn it) but PRACTICE is the KEY to success.
Legal Requirements
There is no certification requirement, however, if you offer airbrush services
without proper training, be prepared to produce low-quality designs, resulting
in disgruntled clients. Again, airbrushing is a learned skill that
requires continued practice and a creative eye. There is a LOT of money
to be made airbrushing fingernails IF the airbrush artist produces fantastic,
high-quality airbrushed nail designs.
Selling your Skills
Advertising your skill is paramount! My #1 suggestion for selling your artwork
is to ALWAYS wear airbrushed nails yourself. In addition to your
clients walking around, your own nails are 10 mini-billboards advertising
your skills! Take full advantage of this by wearing brightly colored designs!
And ALWAYS have your business card ready so that when someone asks, "Who does your nails!?" You
can produce your business card while replying, "I do! May I do yours?" For
referrals, make sure your clients who are fans of airbrushing always have
a few of your business cards in their purses too.
How to Price Your Airbrushed Nail Art Designs
There are two common ways to price your airbrushed nail art designs:
1 - Time involved in design completion (whether it be 2 or 10 nails)
2 - Number of colors involved. Obviously a french design using only one color
(white) should be priced less than a design that involves 3-5 color comibinations.
Whichever method you choose, I recommend you price the
overall design by amount PER NAIL. For example, for a $10.00 french
design, you say, "French Airbrush Designs are cheap -- only $1 PER NAIL."
But if your
TOTAL service fee is $25.00 for a completed, more elaborate airbrushed
nail design (of more than one color), then you should tell your client,
"That popular design is only $2.50 PER NAIL" (which sounds a lot better
to her than $25.00, doesn't it?). To
her ears, $2.50 is more affordable.
Just remember, the more colors you use, the higher the
service fee.
Why Most People Fail at Airbrushing
There are two primary reasons why students do not succeed to a high standard
of airbrushing skills.
1) They expect to master the skills needed without putting forth the hours
and hours required for practice.
2) They do not clean the airbrush properly (or often enough) which causes
paint to dry inside the mechanisms, producing frustration to the user.
Airbrushing fingernails can be a very lucrative service to an experienced
nail tech. The demand for this skill is at an all-time high. Salons who offer
this service are proof that women love to adorn their nails. Don't
be the last nail tech in your area to reap the monetary benefits of this
awesome skill!
GINA'S TOP AIRBRUSHING
TIPS
1) Before you start ANY nail polish or nail art service, the client should
have already written her check, obtained her car keys from her purse, popped
her mint into her mouth, and blown her nose! Then send her to wash her
hands...
2) Always start with a clean set of nails. Polish or nail art won't stick
to dirty, or oil-coated nails. First, always have your clients wash their
nails (tops and undersides) with anti-bacterial liquid soap and a clean
manicure brush and dry completely using a lint-free towel.
3) Always prepare your nail art materials while the client is washing.
You should have already discussed which design and colors she prefers,
so have those stencils and those paint colors out and ready when she returns.
4) Apply a quality base coat to all 10 nails, polishing as if it were red
polish. When airbrushing, if the base coat is applied on the cuticles,
the airbrush paint will stick to it and is very difficult to remove without
pain and injury to the client. There's no need to allow the base coat to
dry--let the airbrush dry them for you when you do step 6.
5) ALWAYS test your airbrush on a paper towel prior to spraying the client's
nails. Hold the airbrush no more than 1/2 inch from the paper towel when
testing. Remember, paper towels are 100 times more absorbent than a human
fingernail!
6) Airbrush on an even coating (by circle spraying) white onto the nails.
The paint should DRY INSTANTLY if applied properly. I usually test the
airbrush on the back of my hand because white doesn't show up on white
paper towel. NOTE: Ever wondered why we spray on white first? Let me tell
you. For two reasons, not just one. All artists start with a white canvas--obviously
for color clarity (to insure reds are red, blues are blue, etc.) right?
But we nail artists do it also to insure that the client's UNDERSIDES of
her nails remain white--because our canvas has two sides--so when she goes
to hand coins to someone (for example--palm up), her nails aren't 6 different
colors! See, you knew the answer all along, now didn't you?
7) I find that a two or three-color gradient blended background works the
best to magnify definition and enhance any nail art design. So spray on
a gradient blend on the pinkie nail and move from pinkie to thumb, pinkie
to thumb. Because airbrush paint colors can't be made lighter (only darker),
if you spray one too long and make it darker than the others, you'll have
to go back and respray them until all the nails look "related", like brothers
and sisters before moving onto the next step.
8) Choose a large image for the background and strategically place it on
the nail to one side (never smack-dab in the middle). Spray the image sandwiching
the top of the image between your forefinger and your middle finger; AND
sandwich the bottom of the image between your ring finger and thumb. Now,
bring your forefinger and thumb together. Did you notice what happened?
Look at the edge of your stencil. What does that shape remind you of ????
A fingernail's shape, right? See, by holding the stencil like this, you've
already eliminated half the problems! Now this takes practice, but if you
do it as I do, I guarantee your lines will be crisper and have more oomph!
9) Place your client's finger in a finger stand and show her where you
want each finger placed; "educate" her to switch fingers when you say "SWITCH".
I say educate because clients don't know what to do unless we tell them.
Remind her to be still during the entire spraying process. If she moves,
you'll smudge the paint and you aren't ALLOWED to fix it because it will
take more time and will cost her more (remember, you've got another client
coming in 20 minutes!)
10) Spray multiple images with multiple colors. ALWAYS spray light colors
on dark colors and dark colors on light colors for CONTRAST. Contrast is
a key word that gets your airbrush art work noticed! And don't forget to
'base' the image with white first prior to spraying a light color on top
of a dark one!
11) When your design is complete, use a top quality airbrush top coat and
generously coat the bristles of the brush. Lay the brush FLAT on the nail
and polish the art work as if you were using RED because what you seal
will stay, what you don't will wash away. Seal all sides and the free edge.
12) Now, here's secret that is worth its weight in GOLD! Have your clients
ever smudged their polish or art work AFTER you've finished and want YOU
to fix it???? Sure, I know they have! Well, here's what to do to keep them
from ever smudging their polish or nail art again! It's easy, everyone
can do it, and it won't cost them a cent. Educate (there is that word again!)
your client to spread her fingers wide and 'interlock' them, while keeping
their fingers poised during the 10 minute drying process. Have them put
their elbows holding their hands up towards the ceiling--on your table
so you can keep an eye on them! All my clients know my 'FIRM INTERLOCKING'
PRACTICED HERE" rule, and are willingly abide. As a result, I NEVER have
to repair a smudged nail and they are out the door quicker!
13) After their top coat has dried, YOU take them to the basin and liberally
coat their nails (not hands) with anti-bacterial liquid soap. Draw a bit
of water in the clean basin. Using a virgin, medium toothbrush, brush the
unwanted particles of airbrush paint off their cuticles! This step takes
about 3 minutes. Then grab a clean client towel and GENTLY "pat" both sides
of their hands--never forcefully. NOTE: This toothbrush trick works ONLY
for airbrush paint that is acrylic water based paint.
14) Educate the client to purchase "insurance in a bottle" airbrush top
coat (ALWAYS RETAIL!) and apply every 3 days, beginning the night of the
service. If she does this, in two weeks, her nails will look as good as
the day you did them! Remind her that she's made an INVESTMENT in the nail
art and if she wants to protect her investment, she should buy your bottle
of insurance! Chances are, you'll be adding another $5.00 to your take
home pay!
If you are a Home Learn airbrushing
student,
please read this page of REASONS
FOR AIRBRUSHING POINT DEDUCTIONS.
NAIL COMPETITIONS
For a FANTASTIC
insight into the world of Competitions, click HERE!
Below are some of my suggestions for entering a NAIL ART competition.
NOTE: Some of this advice ALSO applies to
regular nail extension s. Exceptions are: Table and Costume and
Nails Decoration.
GETTING STARTED
First of all, competitions are a solid way to get yourself AND your work
noticed! So start to prepare no later than 3 months in advance for a competition.
Locate a previous multi-winner and phone him/her for guidance. Also, judges
(like myself) are almost always willing to help. Do some research. Top
Nail Trader's Magazines always publish graphic, detailed color photos of
nail art competition winners. Gather them. STUDY THEM. But remember to
develop your own "style".
ENTERING A COMPETITION
Find out who the Competition Director of your competition is. Contact that
person and ask for rules/regulation sheets. Find out the e-mail addresses
of past winners (if allowed). Once you receive the information, return
the entry form and fees (if any) as soon as possible. Study the rules and
regulations and follow them to the letter! DON'T cheat. You'll be caught
by sharp eyes and disqualified on the spot.
HOTEL/TRAVEL RESERVATIONS
Since you will be expected to pay ALL of your model's expenses, then book
your hotel/travel reservations for you and your model immediately! Discount
rates are granted to nail techs who disclose the "key word" at many leading
hotel chains, which are published in the trader's magazines. Do this ASAP
to avoid searching for a hotel at the last minute. It'll only add to the
stress level.
THEME--IN A NAIL ART COMPETITION, ALL THREE MUST COMPLIMENT
THE CHOSEN THEME.
Don't do Disney Characters, Flowers, or similar themes. Get those creative
juices flowing and do something that's NEVER been done before. Blow the
judges away!
COSTUME--Can be a simple, hand-made costume. Personally,
I'm far more impressed with these than the "store bought" versions.
It shows the competitor's dedication, versatility, and create talent.
DO help your model dress that morning--don't risk her breaking a
nail! Do her hair for her too if need be. Put something in her hair
that ties to the theme. I've even seen costumes down to the sandals
worn by the model.
TABLE SET UP--Your table must compliment the
overall theme. The judges want to see something that has "never
been done before" HERE too. You'll receive about 4-5 feet work
area. Work in half of it...presentation set up in the other
half. Make sure props are visually attractive and are set up
from the angle that the judges will view them. (HINT: Themed
music is sometimes allowed...if so, take your CD player!)
OVER AND UNDER--These days, it's almost
not enough just to adorn the tops of the nails with nail
art. These days, I often see nail art painted on the UNDERSIDE
of the nails as well! Of course, the artwork here isn't
as detailed and intricate, but it might just be that "little
bit extra" that would earn you a well needed 2-3 more points.
I've been a judge in a competition where 1 point separated
FIRST and SECOND place.
YOUR MODEL--Though she needn't be a "beauty
queen", it IS important she look GOOD in her costume, so
resist picking someone who is 250 pounds. I'm sorry, I
don't mean to be mean, but judging IS all visual. Your
model should have perfectly sculpted artificial nails (VERY
long extensions are acceptable and are best for nail art).
Also your model should be supportive (a fellow nail tech.
is perfect--though my models were all regular clients of
mine). Coach your model to help you keep time during the
competition, encourage her to be supportive in all ways.
Caution her that she will be required to sit in the arena
for LONGER than you have to. Usually, from 9:30 am until
all models are judged...which is around 2:30. Apply her
nails the day before the competition--if traveling a long
distance, wait until you arrive at your destination. Many
competitors are frustrated when their models break several
nails while carrying luggage, etc.
AFTER THE COMPETITION--DO NOT let ANYONE
touch her nails until after the trophies
have been awarded! Trader Magazines will want their photographers
(and others) to take pictures for the magazine's "competition
spread". Don't risk the opportunity for FREE publicity
by having your model have a broken nail at picture time.
GUARD YOUR EFFORTS--Believe me, I've seen
some jealous competitors try to snap off the nails of someone
they think may beat them. Judges won't hear excuses!
IN ADVANCE--PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE!--Practice your theme
on nail tips at least TWICE (if not more) PRIOR to competition!
And practice AT LEAST ONCE on the model you will be using
on the day. If you use the BEST of these practice nails
(in competition) as your reference point, you'll receive
higher marks than if you use "photo" copies of the artwork.
BUT YOU MUST TELL YOUR MODEL TO TELL THE JUDGE OF THIS
FACT!
DOUBLE UP--Granted, this may be asking
too much of a first-time competitor, but I AIRBRUSHED the
backgrounds of the nails in two different competitions,
washed the model's nails at the desk, then HAND PAINTED
them with intricate designs. This is known as "doubling
up". It's a lot more difficult to do in a timed competition,
but it will award you LOADS more points for versatility
if done well!
TIME TABLE--All competitions (whether
creating nail extensions or nail art, are timed. Each time
allotment varies. So create a time table which outlines
exactly how long you have to spend on each nail/step. In
nail art, the pinkies are known as "time savers". Don't
spend 15 minutes on each of these nails. Also keep in mind
that though the thumbs should be well done, it is unusual
they are photographed, so make sure the extended fingers
are neatly and professionally done! Your model should be
encouraged to watch your clock (kitchen timers are great)
and notify you of the time FREQUENTLY. Example: (You may
choose to alter the order of the fingers, but this is how
I do them.)
2 1/2 hours: (150 MINUTES)
L forefinger- 14 minutes 136 MINUTES
L middle finger- 14 minutes 122 MINUTES
L ring finger- 14 minutes 108 MINUTES
R forefinger- 14 minutes 94 MINUTES
R middle finger- 14 minutes 80 MINUTES
R-ring finger 14 minutes 66 MINUTES
R-thumb 16 minutes 50 MINUTES
L-thumb 16 minutes 34 MINUTES
L-pinkie 10 minutes 24 MINUTES
R-pinkie 10 minutes *14 MINUTES
* (This 14 extra minutes equates ONLY to a little over a minute extra for
each nail, but will offer a "buffer" to ease the stress.)
--LAST MINUTE SUPPLIES--
Repair kits --just in case she breaks a nail!
An extra duffel bag--these collapse, yet are great for stocking up on bargains
down on the floor after the competition.
Purchase a Show "Sponsor Magazine". They contain valuable phone numbers
and information for future use!
And DON'T forget to take your camera/video camera! Whether you win or not,
you'll want to capture the winning nails (and ALL the competition's nails)
on film for encouragement in your next competition!
THE NIGHT BEFORE/MORNING PRIOR TO COMPETITION
You should be fully prepared by now. Get a restful night's sleep !!! Best
advice here: Eat a hearty breakfast, but you and your model eliminate the
coffee! You won't be allowed to visit the ladies room during competition!
Take about 30 minutes (even during breakfast) to "STUDY" your artwork again.
Study the lines, colors and shapes of each carefully one last time.
COMPETITION TIME--When the Director announces "Begin!" Take
a deep breath, and relax. This isn't a race. No points are awarded
for the first one to finish. Stick to your time line and you'll be
just fine!
AWARDS CEREMONY--Arrive at the ceremony at
least 15 minutes early! Don't be late! They won't wait for
you or your model.
At the end of the awards ceremony, collect your judge's score sheets. Approach
each judge and ask for his/her opinions. Ask how you could have improved/scored
higher marks. Use this opportunity! Most competitors don't, and it's a
shame. How can you improve if you don't know what the judges are looking
for? If you don't win, don't get discouraged!!!!! Use this vital time to
talk to the winners and ask questions. They'll be more than happy to share
their victory with you.
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST--Personally thank the Sponsor,
Competition Director and each judge. These professionals usually
volunteer their time. Let them know you appreciate it. And GET YOUR
SCORE SHEETS! Individually, ask the judges why they scored
you the way they did and ask them to provide suggestions for improvement.
I hope these guidelines are helpful to
you.
Gina Wallace, 3-time National Nail Art Competition Winner,
Principal International Educator, Essential Nail Products, Ltd.
GENERAL NAIL
INFO.
YOUR NEW NAILS ARE NOT INDESTRUCTIBLE!
Remember: Treat your nails like jewels; not
tools.......
If you've never had long nails before, your life will indeed change with
the addition of nail extensions. Some people have problems dealing with
the length at first. Here's some great suggestions of Do's and Don’ts
to maintain picture-perfect nails between appointments:
1. Picking up small objects from smooth surfaces can damage the tips of
nails. So slide the objects to the edge of the surface and scoop into your
other hand; or slide a piece of card under the item and lift it that way.
Avoid picking up objects using the nails only.
2. ALWAYS act as if your nails have been polished RECENTLY. To keep your
nails super shiny and beautiful, add a coat of clear top coat every other
day.
3. Do NOT reach for things with the fingers outstretched. Banging your
nails on a door handle is a sure way of breaking them. Remember, if you
are wearing long nails for the first time, they are sticking out 1/2 inch
further than your "normal" reach, so it's easy to over reach and knock
one off until you are used to them. Keep your fingers limp and curled while
reaching for things.
4. To open a 'pull up' car door, do NOT stick your fingertips under the
handle and pull up. If you hand slips, you can break the nails off backwards.
Instead, use the knuckle around your first joint off your index finger
and slide it under the handle side ways.
5. Do NOT push the buttons of a phone, light switch, toaster, or radio,
etc. with your nail tips. Use your knuckle or a pencil or other instruments.
6. Use a coin, a spoon, a butter knife, your curled forefinger, or other
small instrument to open the ring on Cola cans.
7. Don't open plastic bags, packages, or boxes by picking at them with
your nails. ALWAYS use scissors or a knife. Likewise, don't pick price
tags or stickers off with your nails.
8. When washing dishes, gardening, cleaning your car or bathing animals,
scrubbing floors and when using chemicals (household or other), ALWAYS
wear rubber gloves. Gloves protect your nails from chemicals and can act
as a shock absorber should the nails be knocked. Use a butter knife to
scrape dried on foods off of kitchen counters.
9. Button up coats and clothing by using the side of your fingers. Using
the tips forces the button to slide under the nail.
10. Don't pull on your pantyhose or other clothes with your fingertips.
Again, use the sides of your fingers.
11. When bathing, do NOT soak your nails for a long period of time in hot
water. Your nails absorb water 100 times faster than your skin and will
expand. The artificial coating does NOT expand; thus will promote lifting.
ALWAYS keep your hands out of the water when enjoying a bubble bath.
12. Use ONLY non-acetone polish remover when changing the color of your
polish. Acetone will 'eat' the ABS plastic that the extensions are made
of.
13. When making a bed, use your knee to hold up corners of the bed to put
on sheets; use your hand like a karate chop to tuck in sheets and blankets,
or use a children's table tennis game paddle!
14. When doing laundry, if clothes are tangled, use B-B-Q or ice tongs
to pull wet clothes out--or be VERY careful by moving slowly and deliberately.
15. When unhooking jewelry, use the sides of your fingers--NOT your fingernails!
16. When dialing a phone, use the eraser end of a pencil or your knuckles.
17. NOTE ON REMOVAL: Should you decide not to wear artificial nails in
the future, please do NOT remove them yourself! Allow me to remove them
professionally. There is a charge for this service, but it will guarantee
your nails are not damaged in the removal process. Should you, however,
insist on removing them yourself, I cannot be held liable for the consequences.
Since you've made an "investment" in beautiful nails, you should take care
of them. That's why I've provided you with this list of Do's and Don'ts.
I hope you find it helpful. If you have suggestions you'd like to share
with my other customers, please let me know!
And thank you again for giving me the opportunity to service you! I'll
contact you within the week to see how you're new nails are doing.
PRINT THIS REMINDER AND GIVE TO YOUR CLIENT
TO TAKE HOME.
Courtesy of:
DIAGRAM OF
A GREAT NAIL
Do you wonder how to make
a beautiful nail?
The key is to view it from all angles as you file it into shape!
Click HERE to
view this VERY LARGE "perfect nail" diagram.
Feel free to print it if you like.
NAIL TIPS
AND ADVICE
Q: How can I make better smile lines?
Some of the products I use are pinker than others.
A: Sculpting pink and whites require the highest level of technical skill
in order for them to not only look visually pleasing to the eye, but to be
durable also. Different polymers (powders) have different pigments of pink.
Some are almost opaque, while others are almost transparent in clarity. (I
prefer the latter.) The key is to get the white power placed in a smile shape
before applying the pink powder (flush up) next to it. Don't forget to build
the center of the smile higher--for strength to the nail! Creating a perfect
smile line requires a steady hand and focused eye. After applying the white
powder to the form, wet your brush, extract the excess liquid, then roll
the end of it into a point by placing it on kitchen towel. Using only the
tip, quickly guide the powder where you want it to rest, making sure the
sides of the smile are evenly placed in the corners of the nail grooves.
Then overlay as usual.
Q: I am thinking about using the French Fin tips. Do you think
these are good, and could you give any information you might have about
them?
A: Ironic you ask me about French tips. I just
bought another box TODAY! Enough said? :-) Although I don't
do french's often, there's nothing quite like a really well
applied set of french white tips. I might add that I don't
use them straight out of the box and glue them to the nail.
I modify them for a deeper curve. It's a kewl trick that Vicki
Peters demonstrated to me. Wow! What a difference! You hold
the tip vertically over your horizontal forefinger, placing
the points just under the top of your finger (to prevent filing
the points flat). Then you hold your file at an angle and bevel
downwards, keeping a steady grip. Moving back and forth with
the file, trim out the curve ALMOST to the edge of the tip
well. Make sure the curve is even on both sides. Clean out
the curve to remove the debris with a sander band which has
been pushed onto an unused pencil. Glue the tip to the nail
making sure wings of the tip are securely attached.
 ..... 
NAIL FILE GRITS
Q: WHAT KIND OF FILE SHOULD I USE?
A: There is a file for every purpose. Here's a rundown of the file grits
for each step:
PREP: 100-180 Grit
SHORTENING: 80 Grit
SHAPING: 100-180 Grit
SMOOTHING: 180-240 Grit
FINISHING: 600-4000 Grit
SHINE: 12,000 Grit
Translated grits to terms are as follows:
Extra Course: 80 Grit
Very Coarse: 100 Grit
Coarse: 120 Grit
Medium Coarse: 180 Grit
Medium: 220 Grit
Medium Fine: 320 Grit
Fine: 400 Grit
Medium Smoothing: 600 Grit
Smoothing: 4,000 Grit
Shining: 12,000 Grit
Read
NAILS magazine's "File Frenzy" HERE .
Don't forget to strip your new files and buffer blocks (with an old file)
on ALL sides to prevent cutting your client's cuticles!
NAIL MANUFACTURER
DIRECTORY:
Q: Where can I find a reliable
listing of the most popular nail manufacturers and suppliers?
HERE IS A LISTING (Thanks to Barb at www.nailsplash.com) OF NAIL MANUFACTURERS:
AEFM (Assoc. of Electric File Mfg) 702-837-0730
Amoresse 800-258-7931
Antoine De Paris 800-222-3243
Aroma Touch 800-569-2527
Atwood Industries(Kupa and Upower Drills and bits) 800-451- 6733
Aztek 800-962-3099
Backscratchers Fiberglass & Extreme System "Acrylic" 800-832-5577 http://www.backscratchers.com
Bell-Anderson Insurance (nail tech malpractice coverage) 800-893-7443
CBS Beauty Supply 800-NAIL-017
China Glaze Polish 800-624-5776
Cosmic Nails 800-655-6245
Creative Nails http://www.creativenailsdesign.com or 800- 833-NAIL
DeEnterprises 800-433-4630 or 708-345-8088
D'elle Nails 800-445-9403
Designer Nail Products (Nail Art and Airbrushing Specialists) Ph. 313-533-3099
Digicure 800-247-4130
Dixie Art Airbrush Site http://www.dixieart.com
Donalyn Decals 800-336-9902
Dr G's Antimicrobials (Woodward Labs) 800-780-6999 or 562- 598-0800
East Coast Airbrush 800-342-9745
Elegant Glass Fiberglass 800-234-7839
Elizabeth Anthony/Aztec Airbrush 800-888-1701 or 888-848- 1679
Envirocare/MSDS search engine: http://www.msdssearch.com/
Essie Polish 800-232-1155
European Touch 800-626-6912
E-Z Flow 800-552-1477 or 888-439-3569 (888-4EZFLOW)
Flowery Products 800-545-5247
Forsythe Cosmetics (polish) 800-221-8080
Galaxy Nails (Kym Lee) 800-229-NAIL or 909-270-2990
Gena (Paraffin, Manicuring)800-233-4362 H & H Files 800-544-FILE
Gina Wallace Enterprises, Inc. (Essential Nails, USA) 816-229-0611
IBD 800-221-2743
INM (Out The Door Topcoat...)USA 800-541-9836
INM Australia 036961200
INM Netherlands 31-040-2457511
INM So Africa 321253464
Isabel Cristina 800-247-4130 or in NJ 201-313-5700
Jessica Cosmetics (polish) 800-582-4000 Joyart 800-624-5379
kimtanner.com(Star Nails/Canada)http://www.kimtanner.com
Kizmit 800-880-6245
Lasco Drills 800-621-4726
Light Concept Nails/Canada http://www.lcn.ca
Light Concept Nails/USA 800-866-2457
Mehaz 800-225-6342 or 888-225-6342
Menda Dispensers 800-77-MENDA
Milady Books 800-347-7707
Nail Art A La Carte 800-NAIL-ART
Nail Stuff "N" More 800-772-5707
Nail Tech Mentoring (Terri Lundberg) 888-818-6735
Nail Trainer Nail
Training Hand (816)
229-0611
Nailaire Airbrush 800-548-9307
Nailco 800-362-6245
Nailco http://www.nailco.com 800-362-6245
Nailite Nails Supply 800-222-4472
Nailpro Magazine 800-624-4196 http://www.nailpro.com
Nails 2000 International 800-633-3599
Nails At Last (Fishbone alternative to acrylic?) 800-653- 1097
Nails Direct Nail Supply 800-828-9347 Nails Etc 800-522-6204 http:/www.beautytech.com/nailsetc
Nails Magazine 888-NAILS44 http://www.nailsmag.com
The Nail Manufacturers Council 312-245-1595
Nails Plus http://www.nailsplus.com
No Lift Nails (Fung-Off) 800-779-NAIL
NSI 800-354-6741
Oddyssey Nails (Trang) 407-767-2577
OPI http://www.opinail.com 800-341-9999
Orly Nail polish 800-275-1111
Ott Light 800-842-8848
Paasche Airbrush 800-621-1907
Pacific Airbrush 800-758-1438 or 800-423-0250
Pinnacle 888-544-8214
Pro-Finish 800-880-6245 Kupa Drills 800-994-5872
Quality Beauty Supply 800-374-2777
Safari Airbrush 800-528-1706
Salon Publications http://www.beautytech.com/salonpub
Seche Vite 800-937-3243
Snails Nails Art Charms 561-998-4190
Star Nails http://www.starnail.com or 800-star-nail 800-762- NAIL or 800-257-STAR
Stellar Nail (SPI) 800-624-5707 727-548-9100
Supply Source 800-221-TIPS
Tammy Taylor 800-748-6665
Thayer and Chandler Airbrush 800-548-9307
Too Much Fun Airbrush http://www.toomuchfun.net 800-293-3665
Tweezerman 800-645-3340
Ultronics 800-262-6262
W R Rayson (towels and wipes) 800-526-1526
WTAC (Work Top Air Cleaner) http://www.wtac.com 800-422-9822
Zoya Art of Beauty 800-659-6909
I HOPE THIS INFORMATION HAS BEEN BENEFICIAL TO YOU...
Gina Wallace
Principal International Educator,
Essential Nail Products, Ltd.
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